Remember there are many places that have ratcheting framed crimpers and while their frames are the same or similar the quality of the die is what truly matters for your results.Ĭonnectors you could buy as many kits as you like and likely you will still have something your missing so its always best to just buy the main few that are common and build on that as you need stuff otherwise you will waist your money and still not have what you need. now remember i would bet you would be hard pressed to find anyone on here that has done more crimping since i have made thousands of harnesses and up until recently i used this crimper and i have NEVER had a complaint with a harness we made. we have other crimpers for more specialized uses too but for this is the one. It's also much easier to browse his selection to find the most appropriate parts.Here is the best overall crimper for the money and does 90-95% of all arcade and pinball crimping. His prices are comparable (and sometimes lower) than Digikey and Mouser. Great Plains Electronics primarily supports pinball hobbyists.Molex connectors/pins/housings: Great Plains Electronics*, Digikey, Mouser You can always cut them down if you ever need smaller ones. Buy a few extra housings with the largest number of pins you foresee needing.Using keying plugs in your connector housings will help you avoid accidentally plugging housings onto the wrong headers. The board connector's use different key patterns to differentiate the various types of connections (ie. Not only do they hold the header in place, but they also make it obvious which way to plug on the header. Crimping a lot of pins with a hard to use tool isn't fun! Note: Not all connectors are used on all boards.These boards use the following molex connectors: Note: If using this board to drive a lamp/led matrix, connect J11 to the cathode side of your LED matrix (or the return side of your lamp matrix).Note: If using this board to drive a lamp/led matrix, leave J4 unconnected.Note: If using this board to drive a lamp/led matrix, connect J7 to the anode side of your LED matrix (or the input power side of your lamp matrix).Note: If using this board to drive a lamp/led matrix, leave J3 unconnected.Connect your voltage source (5V-20V) to the Bank A Power Input connector (J5).Ensure F2 has a properly rated fuse for your application.J11 connects to the Bank B transistors, which complete the path to ground when activated. Connect each of your devices to the desired pin in J11.Use the Bank B Power Output connector (J4) to supply power to the devices you want to control with this board/bank.Connect your voltage source (5V-80V) to the Bank B Power Input connector (J6).Ensure F1 has a properly rated fuse for your application.J7 connects to the Bank A transistors, which complete the path to ground when activated. Connect each of your devices to the desired pin in J7.Use the Bank A Power Output connector (J3) to supply power to the devices you want to control with this board/bank.Connect your voltage source (5V-80V) to the Bank A Power Input connector (J5).Refer to the P-ROC FPGA specs for more details on the command format. When using a P-ROC, boards with addresses greater than 7 must be accessed directly by software by writing the appropriate data to Module 3, Address 0xC00. Note, P-ROC drivers can be configured into driver groups for the first 8 board addresses (0-7).Dipswitches 4:1 map to board address 3:0. Set the address (dipswitches 4 through 1) to a unique address.Connect the the Serial Output connector (J10) to next board's Serial Input connector (J9).Connect the the Serial Input connector (J9) to previous board's Serial Ouptut connector (J10) (unless this is a master-combo board).Note - These instructions also apply to the master portion of master-combo boards. Connect the Master board's Serial Output connector (J10) to next board's Serial Input connector (J9).Simply using a current limiting resistor is NOT sufficient. If you are using a 5V controller, be sure to level translate the signal before it reaches the Master board.
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